Clean and delicate flavours

We feel that this is a fitting comparison for our first subscription together with Muraho Trading Co. and Hobe Coffee. The clean and delicate flavours of Vunga illustrate Muraho’s skill in producing excellent examples of the coffees we expect to see from Rwanda, while Gisheke showcases their excited and genuinely passionate approach to innovation in coffee. We hope you enjoy this contrast this month.

Second coffee
Gisheke - Anaerobic Bourbon

Experimental anaerobic process

Look for: Mango, Passionfruit and Strawberry
(250g / 8.8oz)

The second coffee this month comes from the Gisheke station, further south on the shores of Lake Kivu. Gisheke is approximately twice the size of Vunga, and also a rather new station for Muraho, having been purchased in 2017 and majorly refurbished in time for the 2018 harvest. It has quickly become one of Muraho’s most loved stations, due in no small part to its stunning location, nestled in a valley overlooking Lake Kivu and Idjwi island, the second largest inland island in Africa. In fact the only way to reach the station is by boat, and 40% of the coffee processed here is grown on another nearby island, Mushungwe. The location in the valley also leads to a key aspect of Gisheke; the perfect conditions for producing high quality natural coffees. The cool winds that flow up the valley from the lake make it possible to dry coffees in a controlled and consistent manner, making this an ideal place to experiment with processing, as Muraho did with this lot. Similar to the Bukeye FFS lot we purchased from the Long Miles project just across the border in Burundi, this lot was put together from a selected group of trusted farmers, who have been working with Muraho for several harvests. The aim here was to start with cherries of the highest possible Brix level, a measure of the sugar content. The producers were asked to pick cherries at absolute peak ripeness, aiming for the most mature stage of harvest. This means more fuel for the fermentation, leading to increased intensity, complexity and of course sweetness in the final cup. These carefully selected cherries were then fermented under a tight plastic sheet, with water poured on top in order to ensure a seal and maintain anaerobic conditions. Using water as a seal means that any oxygen present is allowed to escape, but cannot reenter the fermentation tank. After 48 hours, the plastic sheeting was pierced, allowing the water to flow over the cherries, cooling them and slowing the fermentation. The cherries were then spread out under the sun, drying them to a point where fermentation is stopped, before gradually building deeper layers in order to slow down the overall drying time to around 35 days. This leads to a much more rich profile than the Vunga, driven by aromatic tropical fruit and soft berries.

A push for new and exciting interpretations

Gaudam and Carthick were brought up in Rwanda but moved to Wellington, New Zealand as teenagers. However, when they became adults, they felt the pull back to the land they had always called home. After the devastating effect that the 1994 Genocide had on the country, the brothers felt they had to return and be part of rebuilding and recovering Rwanda. So they left life in New Zealand behind, moved back to Rwanda, and started work on the project that became Muraho. Since then they have gone from strength to strength, and now own several stations throughout the coffee producing regions of Rwanda, exporting coffee to some of the world’s finest roasters. They have also innovated, having been the first to produce and export naturally processed coffees from Rwanda in 2016, after lobbying for government permission for several years. This month we are excited to have the opportunity to share two examples of Muraho’s fine work; the clean and juicy Vunga, showcasing the washed process cornerstone of Muraho, while the wild and rich Gisheke is an example of their constant push for new and exciting interpretations of Rwandan terroir.

We always aim to tell a story

One of the best ways to appreciate the effect of these factors is to taste coffees side by side. Our most popular option allows you to experience two coffees every month, maybe different varietals or processes from the same farm or region, or maybe two parallel lots from producers at opposite ends of the coffee belt. We always aim to tell a story with our coffee choice, focusing on a different aspect of what we’re finding exciting in coffee right now. Sharing these experiences each month allows us to expand our coffee horizons together, and develop a shared vocabulary within both taste and preference in coffee.

We’re always happy to continue our conversation with you through our webshop portal, whether it be purely practical, or discussions about this month’s coffees. We see our role as simply a middleman between you and some of the best coffees in the world, and the people who produce them. These people inspire us, and we do our utmost to share both their coffees and their stories with the people who appreciate them most.