About the coffee
Due to the very cool conditions and humidity, it is rather more difficult to dry coffees in Espirito Santo than in much of the rest of Brazil. It is for this reason that the pulped natural process is so popular here, and like many, this lot was dried in a greenhouse in order to raise the temperature and shield from rains. All of this leads to a sweet and juicy profile, one of the finest coffees we have tasted from Espirito Santo in recent years, taking us back to our first trip to this enchanting region and the exotic and varied profiles we were able to taste there together with our partners from Ally Coffee.
The Montanhas do Espirito Santo coffee growing region lies in the western highlands of the state of Espirito Santo. Coffee farms here are distinct from those in the rest of Brazil in several ways. Production here more closely resembles that in other countries in South America, with small family-owned farms perched on steep mountainsides. The climate is rather cool due to the influence of the nearby Atlantic ocean, and the mountainous terrain creates many distinct microclimates, leading to perfect conditions for growing slow-maturing high quality Arabica coffees. Due to the steep terrain, most producers in Espirito Santo pick by hand, unlike much of Brazil. These conditions, alongside the varying techniques of many small scale farmers, result in distinct and characterful coffees, most of which are harvested 1-2 months later than the rest of the country. Coffees from Espirito Santo tend to have higher acidity and more distinct fresh fruit notes than many other Brazilian coffees.
Orange, Apricot & Dark Chocolate
Sitio Bateia is located near the town of Castelo in southern Espirito Santo, Brazil. A collaboration between three producers, José Fernando Fortunato, and brothers Ederval and Edson Pires Sartori. After the harvest, they split the harvested cherry and each undertakes their own processing. This lot was processed by José, using the pulped natural method. José has worked in coffee for many years, but wasn’t able to invest in speciality coffee until he met the Sartori brothers and began to work with them on Sitio Bateia. The team have worked hard to improve their selective picking and fermentation protocols, leading to small lots of characterful coffee.
|Producer||José Fernando Fortunato|
The natural, or dry process, is the traditional process, going back generations. When accomplished in a controlled and careful manner, dry processed coffees can produce flavour experiences not found in wet processed coffees, deep fruits and florals, normally with heavier mouthfeel and lower acidity. The cherries are first sorted, and then laid out on in thin layers (2-6 cm) on raised drying beds. These are almost always used for high quality naturals, as they aid airflow around the coffee as it dries, enabling more even drying. It is very important that coffees are sorted very carefully early on in the drying process, as all of the cherries quickly turn dark brown, making it impossible to separate under and overripe cherries. The cherries are turned frequently to avoid mold formation or over-fermentation, until they reach a moisture content of below 20%, and the outer cherry layer shrinks and blackens. This process takes between 2 and 4 weeks, depending on weather conditions.
About La Cabra
A focus on raw material
If we don’t feel that a coffee suits our style or what we like to present, we simply won’t buy it. Sometimes this leads to issues in green buying; we have to pay very close attention, to a level of green quality that will support this approach, and to how this will develop over the life of a coffee. We are required to focus heavily on the freshness of coffee, both green and roasted, to avoid introducing taints into our cups. We always use clean and fresh water, of an ideal mineral content to present the coffee in its best possible light. Once we have the correct roasting profile, water, and coffee age, the act of brewing is much more simple. A wide variance in brewing parameters can still produce delicious and transparent cups. It is also important to note that this is not always the most consistent approach. The coffee is laid completely bare, so any flaw with the raw material is clearly on show. We could often develop some coffees slightly more, to make them more approachable or easy to work with, but wavering from our philosophy like this would compromise our commitment to complete transparency in coffee.Read more