Ethiopia

Pre-release: Surma

Natural Gesha 1931

A wild expression of Gesha 1931 grown on the Surma plot of Gesha Village; processed using an anaerobic pre-fermentation.

The anaerobic process creates a wild expression, with cherries fermented in sealed plastic sacks for 60 hours before drying as a traditional natural.

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Gesha Village lies in the Bench Maji zone of South Western Ethiopia, not far from the border with South Sudan. This area, in the high altitude humid forests where the Great Rift Valley passes into South Sudan, is thought to be the birthplace of Arabica coffee, and is still home to great genetic diversity. Here at Gesha Village however, one varietal sits in the spotlight; Geisha. Adam Overton and Rachel Samuel first travelled to Ethiopia in 2007 to make a documentary about its unique method of coffee production, and fell in love with the country. They decided during that short trip that they would eventually move to the country to start producing coffee themselves. They found a 471 hectare plot of land in Bench Maji, further west than we normally find specialty coffee in Ethiopia, in a remote area of untouched high altitude forest. The wild forest remained as coffee was planted, maintaining as much as possible of the biodiversity so crucial to the Ethiopian mode of production, while also providing ample shade for the fragile Geisha trees.

This isn’t just any Geisha however. Gesha Village is located only around 20 km from the Gori Gesha forest, where the hallowed varietal of the same name was first isolated by British researchers in 1931. When preparing Gesha Village, the team behind the project trekked into the forest and gathered seeds from the wild coffee trees growing there, selecting those that genetically resembled the original 1931 expedition Geisha.

This lot of Gesha 1931 was grown on the Surma plot of Gesha Village, reaching up to 2060 masl, named for one of the ethnic groups that inhabit the area around the farm. The cherries for this lot were harvested on the 16th of December last year, before processing with an anoxic pre-fermentation. Full cherries were placed in the same GrainPro bags that coffee is often shipped in, and placed under a plastic cover to protect from sunlight. These thick plastic bags are impermeable to water and oxygen, so when they are sealed and the cherries begin to ferment, the bags expand as carbon dioxide is produced. After 60 hours of fermentation, the cherries were dried using raised African beds in very thin layers, so almost no fermentation is allowed to occur on the beds.

This incredible raw material, grown in its native wild forest, combined with careful processing, creates an intense yet clean and delicate flavour experience. The florals are softened into violet, and notes of ripe tropical fruit are enhanced.

Technical Data

  • Producer

    Gesha Village
  • Region

    Bench Maji
  • Altitude

    2000 masl
  • Varietal

    Gesha 1931
  • Process

    Anaerobic
  • Harvest

    December 2022

Anaerobic Process

The coffee is first pulped mechanically, removing most of the fruit, as with a white honey process. The parchment coffee and almost gel-like mucilage are then packed tightly into a small fermentation tank, and sealed with almost no oxygen present. As the fermentation starts to occur, carbon dioxide is produced, creating a completely anaerobic environment, and also high pressure within the tank. This affects coffee flavour in two ways. 

An anaerobic environment favours a very different set of fermenting bacteria and yeast, leading to a dominant lacto-fermentation. The pressure also forces coffee juices into the seed itself, adding more fermentable sugars to continue the process. The coffee is then dried with the mucilage still attached, as with a honey processed coffee. All of this adds layers of complexity to the final cup.


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152 2nd Ave

10003 New York

United States

Opening Hours:

Mon - Fri: 7:00 - 18:00

Sat - Sun: 8:00 - 18:00

284 Lafayette St

10012 New York

United States

Opening Hours:

Mon - Fri: 7:00 - 18:00

Sat - Sun: 8:00 - 18:00

Graven 20

8000 Aarhus C

Denmark

Opening Hours:

Mon - Sat: 8:00 - 18:00

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8000 Aarhus C

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Mon - Sat: 7:00 - 18:00

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Marguerite Vibys Plads 8

2000 Frederiksberg

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813 Charoen Krung Rd, Talat Noi, Samphanthawong

10100 Bangkok

Thailand

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Mon - Fri: 8:00 - 17:00

Sat - Sun: 8:00 - 17:00

304 Phahonyothin Road, Samsen Nai, Phaya Thai

10400 Bangkok

Thailand

Opening Hours:

Mon - Fri: 08:00 - 17:00

Sat - Sun: 08:00 - 17:00

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2000 Frederiksberg

Denmark

Have a question?

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