Hacienda La Esmeralda
Only one per customer
Grown on the Porton plot of Esmeralda’s El Velo farm
Hacienda La Esmeralda
Hacienda La Esmeralda requires almost no introduction within the world of coffee. Starting mainly as a cattle farm in the mid 20th Century, in 2004 the Peterson family shook the coffee world by breaking the world record price for a lot of coffee, composed entirely of a newly re-discovered varietal - Geisha.
In the years since, Esmeralda have continued to push boundaries, both for coffee quality and for price. Their yearly auction produces some of the most stunning coffees we have ever tasted, and is renowned for the high prices received, and for the difficulty of securing a specific lot.
The Varietal Garden
This year, we have tightened our connection with this iconic farm. We have visited during our coffee travels, keep in touch each year around harvest time, and always cup samples of consistently some of the finest coffees in the world. For this harvest we were incredibly excited to be involved in this small project, where Esmeralda grow small plots of several varietals on one of their small farms.
At El Velo, where this year’s natural Geisha was grown, there are several tiny experimental plots; 0.7ha of SL-28, 1.8ha of Pacamara and 1.1ha of Bourbon Pointu, better known as Laurina. Geisha and Catuai are the only varietals that Esmeralda produce in larger scales. These experimental varietals produce extremely small amounts of coffee each year, and we are one of a very small number of roasters worldwide that have been given access to these lots this year.
Due to this, the amount we have been able to purchase is very limited, so we are only able to release a very small number of these special bundles, offering a wider taste of the terroir of Hacienda La Esmeralda. The incredible production expertise and systemic quality creation that Esmeralda have become so renowned for are present in each of these cups, showcasing the vital importance of varietal choice for specific terroir.
A limited lot from Esmeralda’s varietal garden; a soft and floral natural Pacamara with stewed berry notes
The first coffee
The Pacamara lot is processed as a natural, showcasing the complexity of the varietal while helping to round out some of the herbal qualities it is often known for. Here, these are softened into deep florals, on a base of sweet berry yoghurt.
The Pacamara plot is only 1.8 hectares, and lies at one of the highest points of the farm at 1850 masl.
A floral & rich coffee
A truly stunning cup, showcasing both crisp white florals and a stone fruit richness enhanced by the process.
The Second Coffee
This lot specifically comes from Esmeralda’s El Velo farm, and is processed as a natural. El Velo lies to the north of the town of Boquete, at about 1750 masl. Due to the incredible traceability and separation that Esmeralda are able to provide, we know that this lot was picked on the Porton lot of the farm on the 10th of March this year, and was dried over 9 days on patios.
Esmeralda often use patios to dry microlots, as mechanical driers don’t provide the required level of accuracy when handling very small amounts of coffee. The ripe geisha cherries, sorted with Esmeralda’s trademark level of care and attention, are laid out in thin layers and turned often, leading to an even drying, but also a rather quick drying time.
This results in a clean and balanced natural, not dominated by process flavours.A truly stunning example of Esmeralda Geisha, showcasing both the crisp white florals that we have come to treasure from the Geisha varietal, and an enhanced stone fruit richness from the careful natural process.
A floral & rich coffee
ProducerHacienda La Esmeralda
Altitude1850 masl & 1750 masl
VarietalPacamara & Natural Geisha
The natural, or dry process, is the traditional process, going back generations. When accomplished in a controlled and careful manner, dry processed coffees can produce flavour experiences not found in wet processed coffees, deep fruits and florals, normally with heavier mouthfeel and lower acidity. The cherries are first sorted, and then laid out on in thin layers (2-6 cm) on raised drying beds. These are almost always used for high quality naturals, as they aid airflow around the coffee as it dries, enabling more even drying.
It is very important that coffees are sorted very carefully early on in the drying process, as all of the cherries quickly turn dark brown, making it impossible to separate under and overripe cherries. The cherries are turned frequently to avoid mold formation or over-fermentation, until they reach a moisture content of below 20%, and the outer cherry layer shrinks and blackens. This process takes between 2 and 4 weeks, depending on weather conditions.