Discovery

Buku Hambela

Both of this month’s lots were processed at SNAP Coffee’s washing station in the town of Buku Abel, located in the Hambela area of Guji. During our trip to Ethiopia in February, we cupped several tables of excellent coffees from this year’s harvest at SNAP’s headquarters in Addis Ababa, and visited their dry mill outside the city. SNAP was established in 2008 by Negusse Debela, and now operates washing stations across Ethiopia; in the Gedeo zone, in Guji and in West Arsi.

We were truly impressed by SNAP’s attention to detail during our visit, at their dry mill and at the quality lab. This dedication translates both to the stations in the growing regions, and into the cup. This month’s coffees express two different aspects of the Ethiopian flavour profile, a ripe and floral natural, and a wild and fruit driven Anaerobic.

SNAP Coffee’s washing station

SNAP was established in 2008 by Negusse Debela, and now operates washing stations across Ethiopia; in the Gedeo zone, in Guji and in West Arsi. Negusse’s son Amanueal has been taking over much of the speciality side of the business, and we shared an inspiring dinner with him during the trip in February; discussing future plans for ever greater traceability, and the impressive progress of the Ethiopian coffee industry even under the difficult conditions of the past few years.

Natural Heirloom

The dry and hot conditions during harvest allow for careful and consistent control of natural drying, covering the drying beds with tarps during the most intense hours of sun to protect from damage and slow the drying. Coffee is turned often, and hand sorted at several stages during processing to ensure cleanliness. This creates a very clean and rich expression in the cup, with more clarity than we find in traditional Ethiopian naturals. In the case of Buku, this creates a rich and ripe sweetness, reminiscent of strawberry and milk chocolate, underpinning the aromatic top notes of bergamot and black tea.

Well-processed naturals, like this one from Buku Hambela, showcase ripe stone fruit, while maintaining the florals we so value in Ethiopian coffee.

Anaerobic Heirloom

In order to create this lot, the very ripest cherries, on the edge of overripe, are selected before being sealed in plastic tanks and fermented in an anaerobic environment for 60 hours. This long fermentation causes the cherries to turn a dark purple colour, before they are dried with the cherry still attached for around 12 days. This has allowed a wild and juicy interpretation of Ethiopian terroir to develop. The fact that this terroir driven character is still able to be appreciated is testament to the expert processing carried out by SNAP. In this lot from Buku Hambela, we find a juicy profile reminiscent of red apple with a wild candied sweetness.

Anaerobic processing is still a rather new development in Ethiopia, and here we find a juicy profile reminiscent of red apple with a wild candied sweetness.

BREW GUIDE

V60

This recipe results in a bright and fresh expression, almost like a refreshing iced tea. This suits Ethiopian coffees well, showcasing clear and juicy fruit notes.

DATA

Equipment: Hario V60, Paper filter, Scale, Timer, Grinder, Pitcher

Brew Time: 3:30 min

Water: 180g purified water at 96C, 60g of ice

Coffee: 18g

METHOD

1: Put the paper in your V60 and give it a good rinse with hot water. It removes all paper taste and preheats the brewer. Try not to heat the pitcher, as we want to use this to cool the coffee.

2: Grind your coffee beans to a medium fine grind setting. Add the coffee to the brewer, add the ice to the pitcher, and tare your scale.

3: Start your timer. Pour 60g (2.12oz) water to create the bloom. At 45 secs: pour in 60g (2.12oz) water. At 1:30 seconds: pour the final 60g (2.12oz) water. The water should have drained through at around 2:30.

4: Pour the concentrate over a glass of ice.

DISCOVERY

Coffee in Ethiopia

Coffee in Ethiopia is special for many reasons. The genetic diversity of the plants, growing in biodiverse polyculture systems in their native terroir results in a unique flavour profile. The systems here also make getting the best coffees out of Ethiopia a special challenge. Government control over exports, lack of access to foreign currency, and rampant inflation have affected the coffee market this year, leading to significant price hikes across the board. Our trip this year was inspiring, observing the work of dedicated individuals under all of these circumstances, not to mention the challenges that have faced wider Ethiopian society in recent years. We hope you enjoy the fruits of that dedication this month.