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DISCOVERY

Clean Expressions

Fabiano Diniz’s careful fermentation leads to a surprisingly clean and fresh natural Brazil, with a crisp malic acidity and brown sugar sweetness. In Muraho’s case, their focus at the Shyira station is on careful selection and lot separation in order to find the gems of the harvest, in this case a bright and floral washed Bourbon selection.

What is happening at La Cabra:

After our trip to Ecuador in November, we’ve been searching for the best way to showcase the work of one of the most dedicated and meticulous coffee producers we have ever visited, Juan Peña of Hacienda La Papaya. The bundle we have released focusses on his Typica varietal, and his innovative work in fermentation. Throughout each of the four lots, the character of the varietal is maintained, while the expression varies wildly due to the fermentation method chosen. These releases from Ecuador continue our spring season of coffees, focussed on South American releases from our trip in November, and our picks of the harvest from our partners at Long Miles in Burundi and Muraho in Rwanda.

We are also looking forward to the return of the Danish Coffee Festival, and the Danish national competitions this month. Over the weekend of the 29th of April to the 1st of May, coffee professionals from across the country will meet to compete in the Barista, Brewer’s Cup and Cup Taster’s disciplines. We will also have a stand at the festival, serving seasonal lots to festival-goers all weekend alongside many of our Danish and international colleagues.

We have also launched our German language website, in a hope to create a better webshop experience for our neighbours south of the border.

Shyira

Crisp florals and fresh citrus

Fabiano Diniz

Surprisingly clean and juicy

Clean Expressions

This month's coffees

There are many ways to produce excellent coffee, over our years of travelling the coffee belt we have seen many; from tiny 2 hectare farms producing micro-lots in Huehuetenango, washing stations compiling the work of thousands in East Africa, to huge mechanised projects in Brazil. The mechanisms through which quality is developed is rather different through all of these methods, but the common theme is intention. Each step is considered, with an intent on producing lots of consistent high quality. In the case of this month’s coffees, these steps are rather different, but both producers have the same intention, to produce a high quality coffee with a clean and fresh flavour expression.

Producing excellent coffees

There are many ways to produce excellent coffee, over our years of travelling the coffee belt we have seen many; from tiny 2 hectare farms producing micro-lots in Huehuetenango, washing stations compiling the work of thousands in East Africa, to huge mechanised projects in Brazil. The mechanisms through which quality is developed is rather different through all of these methods, but the common theme is intention. Each step is considered, with an intent on producing lots of consistent high quality. In the case of this month’s coffees, these steps are rather different, but both producers have the same intention, to produce a high quality coffee with a clean and fresh flavour expression.

The focus starts on the tree, creating good volumes of healthy, rich and well nourished coffee cherries. As with any further step in the coffee chain, there is no way to create a product better than what has gone before, so creating healthy soils and trees is vital to creating flavour intense and sugar filled cherries, precursors to quality later in the chain. In the case of Fabiano, the high altitude and fertile soils of the Caparaó mountain range give him an excellent opportunity for quality, which alongside fertilisation procedures, leads to excellent cherry quality. At Shyira, each delivering farmer is provided with agronomic advice, on topics such as pruning, picking and fertilisation, also leading to excellent quality. The soils here are less exhausted by industrial agriculture, and farmers also often practice intercropping with food crops, also helping to nourish coffee trees through biodiversity.

The next steps are harvesting, selection and processing. Here, Fabiano, unlike many in Brazil, practices hand-picking, so he carefully removes only the ripe cherries, leading to a higher level of sweetness and uniformity in the cup, and not damaging nodes on the tree, meaning they are ready to harvest again next season. This means that Fabiano’s farm has less of an annual heavy crop/light crop variation than many farms surrounding his. He then moves on to his careful fermentation, using sealed tanks to enhance the fresh character in the cup. This, combined with the ample fuel for the fermentation provided through the carefully grown ripe cherries, leads to one of the freshest and cleanest natural Brazilian lots we have yet tasted.

Meanwhile at Shyira, quality is created in a rather different way. Although the quality potential of the region is excellent, and the delivering farmers are given careful support, Muraho have much less direct control over the quality of incoming cherry than Fabiano. To counter this, they have to be very careful with their selection of incoming cherry, sorting carefully for over- and under-ripes that may have been delivered. The washing process is also carried out with a typical Muraho level of attention to detail, keeping separation of day lots throughout the process. This separation also leads to a further opportunity for quality creation, choosing the finest lots and making sure they make it to discerning buyers that pay premium prices. Muraho’s traceability system also means that they can find which farmers delivered to which lot, creating an opportunity for feedback and to seek out the farmers delivering the finest cherry each season.

Both of these production methods, although very different, are built on the intention of creating micro-lots of high quality, with a fresh and clean expression. Our connections with these talented and driven producers are an incredibly valuable part of our work, and we rely on several partners, in this case Farmly in Brazil, and Hobe in Rwanda, in order to help us make these.

Shyira

Crisp florals and fresh citrus

The Shyira Coffee Washing Station (CWS) is the highest altitude of the Muraho stations, located in the northern Nyabihu district. Shyira’s remote location also means it is the smallest station, and a big driver in the decision to build the station here was the greater impact that Muraho could have on the very rural population here. Here, their genuine drive for social change led to a focus on access to speciality coffee knowledge, and importantly pricing. Over the past couple of harvests, Shyira has also consistently produced our favourite lots out of Rwanda. The weather conditions here are perfect for both production and processing, the volcanic soils are healthy, and of course the high altitude leads to slow maturing, sugar-rich cherries.

This washed lot has a clear citrus acidity, backed up by a deep white sugar sweetness and the typical heavily savoury, almost musk-like herbal aromatics we often find in Rwandan lots.

Fabiano Diniz

A uniquely fresh and clean natural

This particular lot is of the Catucai varietal, a natural crossing between Catuai and Icatu that is rather popular on Brazil. This is a naturally processed coffee, but is pre-fermented in water-filled tanks for 48 hours before drying. This gives a very controlled start to fermentation, breaking down much of the sticky mucilage layer around the seeds at a low temperature before moving to drying beds, open to the elements. The sealed tanks also favour a lacto-bacterial fermentation as opposed to yeast, pushing the fermentation in this direction as it continues on the beds.

This control, and the generation of lactic acid, leads to a rather unique and very clean expression of Brazil, very different to what we have tasted before. Here we find almost a ‘washed’ profile, with crisp notes of apple and rich brown sugar.

DISCOVERY

Dedication to quality

Our work in sourcing is one of the most motivating parts of our coffee lives. It is incredible to witness the intention and dedication with which these producers are able to consistently create high quality coffees in a challenging and organic environment. Although we have seen many different coffee production systems through our travels, we are always surprised by new areas of focus, new methods of creating quality, and increasing levels of deliberate and intentional coffee production. We hope you enjoy Fabiano and Muraho’s work this month, clean expressions created through carefully planned production.

Opening Hours

La Cabra - Graven

Graven 20

8000 Aarhus C

Denmark

Opening Hours:

Mon - Sat: 08:00 - 18:00

Sun: 09:00 - 17:00

La Cabra - Bakery

Borggade 4F

8000 Aarhus C

Denmark

Opening Hours:

Mon - Sat: 07:00 - 18:00

Sun: 07:00 - 17:00

La Cabra - New York

152 2nd Ave

New York

United States

Opening Hours:

Mon - Fri: 08:00 - 18:00

Sat - Sun: 09:00 - 18:00

La Cabra - Bangkok

813 Charoen Krung Rd, Talat Noi, Samphanthawong

Bangkok 10100

Thailand

Opening Hours:

Mon - Fri: 08:00 - 17:00

Sat - Sun: 09:00 - 18:00

La Cabra - Sharjah

1F, House of Wisdom, Al Juraina 1

Sharjah

United Arab Emirates

Opening Hours:

Sun - Thu: 09:00 - 23:00

Fri - Sat: 09:00 - 24:00

Graven 20

8000 Aarhus C

Denmark

Opening Hours:

Mon - Sat: 08:00 - 18:00

Sun: 09:00 - 17:00

Borggade 4F

8000 Aarhus C

Denmark

Opening Hours:

Mon - Sat: 07:00 - 18:00

Sun: 07:00 - 17:00

152 2nd Ave

New York

United States

Opening Hours:

Mon - Fri: 08:00 - 18:00

Sat - Sun: 09:00 - 18:00

813 Charoen Krung Rd, Talat Noi, Samphanthawong

Bangkok 10100

Thailand

Opening Hours:

Mon - Fri: 08:00 - 17:00

Sat - Sun: 09:00 - 18:00

1F, House of Wisdom, Al Juraina 1

Sharjah

United Arab Emirates

Opening Hours:

Sun - Thu: 09:00 - 23:00

Fri - Sat: 09:00 - 24:00

Contact

Webshop

Marguerite Vibys Pl. 1

2000 Frederiksberg

Denmark

Have a question?

Please write us in the chat.

Roastery

Marguerite Vibys Pl. 1

2000 Frederiksberg

Denmark

Marguerite Vibys Pl. 1

2000 Frederiksberg

Denmark

Have a question?

Please write us in the chat.

Marguerite Vibys Pl. 1

2000 Frederiksberg

Denmark